中國上海　「LOEWE Crafted World 工藝世界」

Crafted World, an exhibition designed by OMA and curated by LOEWE’s Crea-tive Director Jonathan Anderson, opens in Shanghai. Crafted World is LOEWE’s first public exhibition. It charts the history of the Spanish brand over nearly two centuries and highlights its long tradition of craftsmanship and eclectic cultural interactions. Set in a wing of the Shanghai Exhibition Centre – a 93,000-square-meter building opened in 1955 to celebrate Sino-Soviet friendship – the exhibition unfolds through a sequence of thematic spaces. The content draws from LOEWE’s extensive archive as well as recent runway collections. It includes objects made by finalists for the LOEWE Foundation’s Craft Prize and works by artists that have inspired certain designs over the last several years.

由 OMA 建築事務所設計、LOEWE 創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 策劃的展覽「LOEWE 工藝世界」在上海開幕，此次為品牌首次公開展覽，也是 OMA與這個西班牙品牌的首次合作。內容回顧了 LOEWE 近兩個世紀的歷史，彰顯出其悠久的手工藝傳統和兼容並蓄的文化互動。上海展覽中心於 1955 年為慶祝中蘇友好而落成，佔地 93,000 平方米。展覽內容取材自 LOEWE 豐富的歷史檔案資料及近期的時裝秀系列。其中亦包括 LOEWE 基金會手工藝獎入圍者的作品，以及在過去幾年中激發了某些設計靈感的藝術家的作品。

Designed in collaboration with OMA, the studio behind some of the most ground-breaking buildings of the 21st century, Crafted World unfolds over 1,600 square metres and the courtyard of the Shanghai Exhibition Centre and features plenty of surprises along the way. These include super-sized leather sculptures, an ascending ‘pronunciation tunnel’ designed to help show how to say “LO-EV-EH”, a series of knee-high exhibits for children to interact with, and a moving, suspended flower garden set inside an infinite hall of mirrors, to name just a few. The exhibition is curated around six thematic chapters showcasing the house’s progressive approach to fashion and the culture of craft: including Born from the Hand, Welcome to Spain, The Atelier, Fashion Without Limits, United in Craft, and Unexpected Dialogues.

此次展覽由 LOEWE Crafted World 工藝世界與 OMA（21 世紀最具突破性的建築工作室之一）合作設計，佔地 1,600 多平方米，坐落於上海展覽中心的庭院內，沿途充滿驚喜。包括大型皮革雕塑、展示品牌發音的 LO-EV-EH 隧道、一系列供兒童互動的展品，以及鑲嵌於無限鏡廳中的移動懸浮花園...等。展覽圍繞著六個主題章節進行策劃，展示了品牌對時尚和工藝文化的進步態度，包含 Born from the Hand 源於手工，Welcome to Spain 來到西班牙，The Atelier 工作坊，Fashion Without Limits 時尚無限，United in Craft 工藝結合，與 Unexpected Dialogues 意想不到的對話等主題。

The enfilade of rooms offers visitors a straightforward itinerary while also containing unexpected encounters and juxtapositions that convey specific aspects of the brand’s story. The exhibition recreates LOEWE’s leather-making process, presents a selection of looks from recent collections in an open and non-hierarchical grid, and invites visitors into spaces devoted to influences and references. Archival material documents LOEWE’s evolution from a collective of artisans working with leather, through its official appointment to the Spanish Royal Family, and up to its current position as one of the world’s most prominent luxury brands. Building on this archival selection are installations of objects and images meant to express the breadth of LOEWE’s cultural influences and engagements. These include the landscapes of different regions across Spain, the carefree aesthetic of 1970s Ibiza, ceramics by Pablo Picasso, the films of Pedro Almodóvar, and the British Arts & Crafts movement. More recent influences such as the films of Studio Ghibli, Ming- and Qing-era ceramic glazes, and traditional basket-weaving techniques from around the world are also on view. Cutouts in the walls of the space expose snippets of the original building, establishing a dialogue between the exhibition rooms and the existing architecture.

展廳的內部結構供觀者直線參觀，卻在過程設計許多意想不到的邂逅與並置，傳達了欣賞品牌故事的各種角度。展覽再現 LOEWE 的皮革製作過程，以開放、無等級之分的方式展示了近期系列中的精選款式，並邀請參觀者進入影響和參考空間。檔案資料記錄了 LOEWE 從一個皮革工匠工作室，到正式成為西班牙皇室認定工藝，再到如今成為世界最著名奢侈品牌之一的演變過程。在這些精選檔案之中，亦展出物品與視覺的裝置，以表達 LOEWE 受到西班牙文化以及各時段美學啟發的創作。其中更包括西班牙不同地區的風景、20 世紀 70 年代伊維薩島無憂無慮的美學、巴勃羅．畢卡索（Pablo Picasso）的陶瓷作品、佩德羅．阿爾莫多瓦（Pedro Almodóvar）的電影以及英國工藝美術運動等；此外，吉卜力工作室的電影、明清時期的陶瓷釉料以及世界各地的傳統編框技術等近期的時代影響也在展出之列；空間牆上的剪紙展示了原始建築的片段，在展廳和現有建築之間建立了對話，種種精心的設計與安排打造一場視覺與空間的豐富饗宴。

Crafted World runs from 22 March to 5 May 2024 before travelling worldwide. The exhibition is open to the public, and entrance is free.

「LOEWE Crafted World工藝世界」將於 2024 年 3 月 22 日至 5 月 5 日在全球巡迴展出。

展覽設計：卡米爾．菲爾賓　米拉．加拉耶娃　洛倫佐．烏裡韋　巴勃羅．蘇比奧托

活動設計：瓦萊裡奧．迪．費斯塔　達塔．亞當森　卡塔利娜．杜米特魯　王梓瑞

圖像與模型：塞巴斯蒂安．伯納迪　阿米内．基内富赫　黃亞瑟

空間性質：展覽

基地面積：1600平方公尺

座落位置：中國上海

影像：馬可．卡佩萊蒂，由 OMA 和 LOEWE 提供

文字：OMA．LOEWE

整理：王韻如

Exhibition Design：Camille Filbien．Mila Garaeva．Lorenzo Uribe．Pablo Subiotto

Event Design：Valerio Di Festa．Darta Adamsone．Catalina Dumitru．Zirui Wang

Graphics + Models：Sebastian Bernardy．Amine Kinefuchi．Arthur Wong

Character of Space：Exhibition

Site Area：1600㎡

Location：Shanghai, China

Photos：Marco Cappelletti, courtesy OMA and LOEWE

Text：OMA．LOEWE

Collect：Ana Wang